{"id":520,"date":"2019-04-05T22:06:55","date_gmt":"2019-04-05T20:06:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/?p=520"},"modified":"2019-04-05T22:11:35","modified_gmt":"2019-04-05T20:11:35","slug":"toledo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/2019\/04\/05\/toledo\/","title":{"rendered":"Toledo"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Pro\u010d vid\u011bt Toledo<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vid\u00edm to jako dneska: sed\u00edm na hodin\u011b \u0161pan\u011bl\u0161tiny a nad\u0161en\u011b &#8211; tehdy je\u0161t\u011b pon\u011bkud l\u00e1man\u011b &#8211; vypr\u00e1v\u00edm o pl\u00e1nech sv\u00e9ho prvn\u00edho s\u00f3lo v\u00fdletu do \u0160pan\u011blska. &#8222;M\u011bla by ses pod\u00edvat do Toleda,&#8220; \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 m\u016fj u\u010ditel Jos\u00e9, a p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161liv\u011b vra\u0161t\u00ed \u010delo, &#8222;to mus\u00ed\u0161 vid\u011bt.&#8220; &#8222;A pro\u010d vlastn\u011b,&#8220; j\u00e1 na to, &#8222;co je tam k vid\u011bn\u00ed?&#8220; Kdy\u017e p\u0159ekonal prvotn\u00ed \u0161ok, \u017ee se v\u016fbec pt\u00e1m na takovou z\u00e1kladn\u00ed v\u011bc, laskav\u011b mi vysv\u011btlil, \u017ee Toledo je jedno z nejstar\u0161\u00edch \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00fdch m\u011bst (jeho vznik se datuje do doby bronzov\u00e9), \u017ee bylo od 11. do 16. stolet\u00ed hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem \u0160pan\u011blska, a \u017ee se mu tak\u00e9 n\u011bkdy \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 &#8222;m\u011bsto t\u0159\u00ed kultur&#8220;, proto\u017ee v n\u011bm (v\u00edce m\u00e9n\u011b pokojn\u011b) koexistovali vedle sebe muslimov\u00e9, \u017eid\u00e9 a k\u0159es\u0165an\u00e9, a ka\u017ed\u00e1 z t\u011bchto kultur zanechala ve m\u011bst\u011b sv\u016fj nesmazateln\u00fd otisk. To v\u0161echno je pravda, a j\u00e1 k tomu dod\u00e1v\u00e1m, \u017ee Toledo je esenc\u00ed st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9ho \u0160pan\u011blska, \u017ee jeho \u00fazk\u00e9 kamenn\u00e9 uli\u010dky maj\u00ed schopnost okouzlovat na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku a \u017ee je tou nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed reklamou na \u0161pan\u011blskou Kast\u00edlii, jakou si dovedete p\u0159edstavit. Dnes m\u00e1 p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 80 000 obyvatel, je hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem autonomn\u00edho spole\u010denstv\u00ed Castilla La Mancha a d\u00edky neskute\u010dn\u00e9mu po\u010dtu pam\u00e1tek na sv\u00e9m \u00fazem\u00ed je jedn\u00edm z nejnav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00fdch m\u011bst. Historick\u00e9 j\u00e1dro Toleda bylo v roce 1986 prohl\u00e1\u0161eno za Sv\u011btov\u00e9 kulturn\u00ed d\u011bdictv\u00ed UNESCO.<br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5635-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-522\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5635-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5635-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Takov\u00e9 pohledy na v\u00e1s \u010dekaj\u00ed v Toledu na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku. Na obr\u00e1zku v\u011b\u017e kostela Iglesia de Santo Tom\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Mirador del Valle<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prvn\u00ed a prakticky povinnou zast\u00e1vkou v Toledu je vyhl\u00eddka <strong>Mirador del Valle<\/strong>, kter\u00e1 se nach\u00e1z\u00ed necel\u00e9 t\u0159i kilometry od vlakov\u00e9ho n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed. Vysoko na kopci, s&nbsp;\u00fachvatn\u00fdmi v\u00fdhledy na Toledo na prot\u011bj\u0161\u00edm b\u0159ehu \u0159eky Tajo. Vyjd\u011bte z&nbsp;vlakov\u00e9ho n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, rozhl\u00e9dn\u011bte se vlevo a vpravo a v&nbsp;okol\u00ed zaru\u010den\u011b spat\u0159\u00edte zast\u00e1vku turistick\u00e9ho autobusu, kter\u00fd v\u00e1s za m\u00edrn\u00fd poplatek vyveze nahoru k&nbsp;vyhl\u00eddce (a obvykle pak zp\u011bt a\u017e k&nbsp;m\u011bstu do bl\u00edzkosti jezd\u00edc\u00edch schod\u016f). Interval je cca ka\u017ed\u00fdch 30 minut.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5583-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-523\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5583-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5583-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Pohled na Toledo z vyhl\u00eddky Mirador del Valle. Hrad na kopci je Alc\u00e1zar de Toledo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Jezd\u00edc\u00ed schody<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Toledo je m\u011bsto kamz\u00edk\u016f. Zbudovan\u00e9 na kopc\u00edch, s&nbsp;mno\u017estv\u00edm p\u0159\u00edkr\u00fdch ulic a schod\u016f. Nab\u011bh\u00e1te se tam v\u00edc, ne\u017e p\u0159i v\u00fdstupu na \u0158\u00edp. Po roce 2000 se do kamenn\u00e9ho j\u00e1dra m\u011bsta jako dva diskr\u00e9tn\u00ed no\u017ee za\u0159\u00edzly z protilehl\u00fdch stran mechanick\u00e9 schody, kter\u00e9 usnad\u0148uj\u00ed p\u0159\u00edstup do historick\u00e9ho centra od p\u0159ilehl\u00fdch parkovi\u0161\u0165. Nedaleko vlakov\u00e9 zast\u00e1vky (cca 20 minut p\u011b\u0161ky) v\u00e1m \u017eivot usnadn\u00ed <strong>Remonte mec\u00e1nico de Safont<\/strong>. Za\u010d\u00e1tek schod\u016f najdete na m\u00edst\u011b nazvan\u00e9m <strong>El Miradero<\/strong>, b\u011bhem p\u011bti minut v\u00e1s vyvezou do bl\u00edzkosti Plaza de Zocodover a u\u0161et\u0159\u00ed v\u00e1m tak p\u0159ev\u00fd\u0161en\u00ed cca 40 metr\u016f. Na druh\u00e9 stran\u011b m\u011bsta jsou to pak jezd\u00edc\u00ed schody na <strong>Paseo de Recaredo<\/strong>. Provozn\u00ed doba schod\u016f je zpravidla mezi sedmou r\u00e1no a jeden\u00e1ctou ve\u010der, o v\u00edkendech to b\u00fdv\u00e1 d\u00e9le.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Plaza de Zocodover<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ten spr\u00e1vn\u00fd v\u00fdchoz\u00ed bod pro prozkoum\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed m\u011bsta je n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed <strong>Plaza de Zocodover<\/strong>. Slovo \u201ezocodover\u201c je arabsk\u00e9ho p\u016fvodu, vych\u00e1z\u00ed ze souslov\u00ed&nbsp;<em>s\u016bq ad-daw\u0101bb<\/em>, kter\u00e9 znamen\u00e1 doslova Trh besti\u00ed. Dne\u0161n\u00ed sympaticky vl\u00eddn\u00e9 \u010dtvercov\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed s&nbsp;barevn\u00fdmi domky a spoustou balk\u00f3n\u016f, ter\u00e1sek a lod\u017ei\u00ed obr\u00e1cen\u00fdch sm\u011brem do n\u011bj bylo sv\u011bdkem v\u0161ech kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00fdch ud\u00e1lost\u00ed v&nbsp;pr\u016fb\u011bhu dlouh\u00e9 historie Toleda. Nebylo jen m\u00edstem, kde jste mohli krom\u011b nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho zbo\u017e\u00ed zakoupit i zv\u00ed\u0159ata, tak\u00e9 se tu v&nbsp;minulosti konaly b\u00fd\u010d\u00ed z\u00e1pasy, popravovali se odsouzenci, a nechvaln\u011b proslul\u00e1 \u0160pan\u011blsk\u00e1 inkvizice tady vykon\u00e1vala sv\u00e9 rozsudky. Pijete k\u00e1vi\u010dku na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed pod pl\u00e1t\u011bn\u00fdm slune\u010dn\u00edkem a v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e9 balkonky ve v\u00e1s vyvol\u00e1vaj\u00ed p\u0159edstavu barevn\u00e9ho pr\u00e1dla su\u0161\u00edc\u00edho se ve v\u011btru? Tak to ne, p\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9. Jsou to vyhl\u00eddkov\u00e9 l\u00f3\u017ee na popravy!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Alc\u00e1zar de Toledo<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>T\u0159i kroky od n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed se zved\u00e1 toledsk\u00fd Alc\u00e1zar, pevnost, ve kter\u00e9 dnes s\u00eddl\u00ed Muzeum arm\u00e1dy. M\u00edsto, na kter\u00e9m se nach\u00e1z\u00ed, je nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm kopcem v\u00a0Toledu s\u00a0nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161kou 548 metr\u016f. Bylo op\u011brn\u00fdm bodem obrany m\u011bsta pro v\u0161echny kultury, kter\u00e9 kdy na jeho \u00fazem\u00ed \u017eily. Dne\u0161n\u00ed podobu pak z\u00edskala pevnost s\u00a0obd\u00e9ln\u00edkov\u00fdm p\u016fdorysem za vl\u00e1dy Karla V. B\u011bhem sv\u00e9 existence byl Alc\u00e1zar n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t rekonstruov\u00e1n, naposledy ve 40. letech 20. stolet\u00ed; b\u011bhem \u0160pan\u011blsk\u00e9 ob\u010dansk\u00e9 v\u00e1lky byl toti\u017e prakticky zni\u010den. V\u00a0l\u00e9t\u011b roku 1936 se v\u00a0Alc\u00e1zaru opevnili p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00edci frankistick\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora a dlouh\u00fdch 70 dn\u00ed byli ne\u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u011b obl\u00e9h\u00e1ni protivn\u00edky z\u00a0republik\u00e1nsk\u00fdch \u0159ad, a\u017e do doby, kdy Toledo dobyl gener\u00e1l Franco.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V&nbsp;Muzeu arm\u00e1dy najdete vystaven\u00e9 nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed zbran\u011b, uniformy, makety lod\u00ed, mapy, obrazy a podobn\u00e9 artefakty, zdaleka nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00edm \u201eexpon\u00e1tem\u201c je v\u0161ak tehdej\u0161\u00ed pracovna plukovn\u00edka Moscard\u00f3. Hned t\u0159et\u00ed den obl\u00e9h\u00e1n\u00ed obdr\u017eel plukovn\u00edk nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd telefon\u00e1t: zavolal reprezentant republik\u00e1n\u016f C\u00e1ndido Cabello s&nbsp;informac\u00ed, \u017ee se poda\u0159ilo zajmout plukovn\u00edkova syna Luise a dal mu deset minut na rozmy\u0161lenou \u2013 bu\u010f se Alc\u00e1zar okam\u017eit\u011b vzd\u00e1, nebo bude jeho syn zast\u0159elen. Jak doty\u010dn\u00fd telefonn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edstroj, tak i doslovn\u00fd p\u0159epis tehdej\u0161\u00ed konverzace otce se synem si m\u016f\u017eete v&nbsp;m\u00edstnosti zakonzervovan\u00e9 v&nbsp;podob\u011b z&nbsp;roku 1936 prohl\u00e9dnout:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Luis Moscard\u00f3 Guzm\u00e1n<\/strong>: Tat\u00ednku!<br><strong>Plukovn\u00edk Moscard\u00f3<\/strong>: Co se stalo, synu?<br><strong>Luis Moscard\u00f3 Guzm\u00e1n<\/strong>: Nic, jen \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed, \u017ee m\u011b zast\u0159el\u00ed, pokud se Alc\u00e1zar nevzd\u00e1, ale ned\u011blej si se mnou starosti.<br><strong>Plukovn\u00edk Moscard\u00f3<\/strong>: Jestli je to pravda, odevzdej svoji du\u0161i Bohu a pozdrav Krista a \u0160pan\u011blsko, bude\u0161 hrdinou, kter\u00fd pro n\u011bj zem\u0159e. Sbohem, synu, l\u00edb\u00e1m t\u011b!<br><strong>Luis Moscard\u00f3 Guzm\u00e1n<\/strong>: Sbohem, tat\u00ednku, l\u00edb\u00e1m t\u011b!<br>(Telefon op\u011bt p\u0159eb\u00edr\u00e1 C\u00e1ndido Cabello)<br><strong>Plukovn\u00edk Moscard\u00f3<\/strong>: U\u0161et\u0159ete si lh\u016ftu, kterou jste mi dal a zast\u0159elte m\u00e9ho syna. Alc\u00e1zar se nikdy nevzd\u00e1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A\u0165 u\u017e plukovn\u00edkovi fand\u00edte, nebo v\u00e1m nad krkav\u010d\u00edm otcem vst\u00e1vaj\u00ed vlasy hr\u016fzou na hlav\u011b, Alc\u00e1zar zajd\u011bte omrknout. Otev\u0159en\u00fd byste ho m\u011bli naj\u00edt ka\u017ed\u00fd den mimo st\u0159edy od deseti do p\u011bti, aktu\u00e1ln\u00ed informace o vstupech a otv\u00edrac\u00ed dob\u011b z\u00edsk\u00e1te na&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.museo.ejercito.es\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">www.museo.ejercito.es<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4493-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-524\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4493-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4493-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Pracovna plukovn\u00edka Moscard\u00f3 a ne\u0161\u0165astn\u00fd telefon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Katedr\u00e1la Nanebevzet\u00ed panny Marie<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Toledsk\u00e1 katedr\u00e1la je vrcholn\u00fdm d\u00edlem \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9 gotiky. Za\u010dala se stav\u011bt v roce 1226 na z\u00e1kladech b\u00fdval\u00e9 vizig\u00f3tsk\u00e9 katedr\u00e1ly, kter\u00e1 posl\u00e9ze slou\u017eila jako me\u0161ita, a pln\u011b dostav\u011bna byla teprve roku 1493 za vl\u00e1dy Katolick\u00fdch veli\u010denstev. Katedr\u00e1la m\u00e1 dv\u011b nestejn\u00e9 v\u011b\u017ee, vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed severn\u00ed v\u011b\u017e m\u011b\u0159\u00ed 90 metr\u016f a je n\u00e1dhernou uk\u00e1zkou gotick\u00e9 architektury, ni\u017e\u0161\u00ed je zase zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 t\u00edm, \u017ee jej\u00ed kupoli navrhl syn slavn\u00e9ho mal\u00ed\u0159e El Greca, kter\u00fd v Toledu pro\u017eil v\u011bt\u0161inu sv\u00e9ho \u017eivota.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5631-e1554494365864-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-526\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5631-e1554494365864-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5631-e1554494365864-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5631-e1554494365864.jpg 1224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Katedr\u00e1la v Toledu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva Toledsk\u00e9 katedr\u00e1ly je z\u00e1\u017eitkem, kter\u00fd vyvol\u00e1 siln\u00e9 pohnut\u00ed i v zaryt\u00e9m ateistovi. Krom\u011b velkolep\u00e9 atmosf\u00e9ry ur\u010dit\u011b ocen\u00edte p\u0159ekr\u00e1sn\u011b zdobenou sakristii s d\u00edly velk\u00fdch mistr\u016f (Tiziano, Vel\u00e1squez, Caravaggio), jim\u017e dominuje obraz Svl\u00e9k\u00e1n\u00ed Krista od El Greca z roku 1579. Za zm\u00ednku stoj\u00ed i n\u00e1dhern\u011b zdoben\u00e9 kaple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5616-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"527\" data-link=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/?attachment_id=527\" class=\"wp-image-527\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5616-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5616-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5616.jpg 1224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Svl\u00e9k\u00e1n\u00ed Krista<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5621-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"529\" data-link=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/?attachment_id=529\" class=\"wp-image-529\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5621-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5621-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Stropn\u00ed fresky v sakristii<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5610-1-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-531\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5610-1-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5610-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5610-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5610-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5610-1-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>La Puerta del Reloj (Br\u00e1na hodin), jeden ze vchod\u016f do katedr\u00e1ly<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Kostely, me\u0161ity, synagogy<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tak t\u011bch je v Toledu opravdu hodn\u011b. Prakticky nem\u016f\u017eete p\u0159ej\u00edt pades\u00e1t metr\u016f po ulici, abyste o n\u011bco z toho nezakopli. Pokud bych je cht\u011bla vyjmenovat v\u0161echny, byli bychom tu t\u00fdden. D\u00edky dlouholet\u00e9mu p\u016fsoben\u00ed El Greca v Toledu nav\u00edc ve spoust\u011b nen\u00e1padn\u00fdch kostel\u00edk\u016f najdete jeho skvostn\u00e1 d\u00edla &#8211; u\u017e jen kv\u016fli tomu se vyplat\u00ed jich p\u00e1r proj\u00edt!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5657-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5657-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5657-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>La Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, jedna z toledsk\u00fdch me\u0161it<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>M\u011bstsk\u00e9 hradby<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nezapome\u0148te omrknout toledsk\u00e9 hradby a m\u011bstsk\u00e9 br\u00e1ny. Zbytky opevn\u011bn\u00ed jsou velkorys\u00e9 a br\u00e1ny monument\u00e1ln\u00ed. Nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u011bstskou branou je <strong>Puerta Nueva de Bisagra<\/strong>, p\u016fvodn\u011b arabsk\u00e9ho p\u016fvodu. V minulosti byla hlavn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edstupovou cestou do m\u011bsta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4465-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"533\" class=\"wp-image-533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4465-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4465-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Puerta Nueva de Bisagra<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4466-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"534\" data-link=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/?attachment_id=534\" class=\"wp-image-534\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4466-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4466-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Stejn\u00e1 br\u00e1na p\u0159i pohledu zevnit\u0159 m\u011bsta<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5670-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-535\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5670-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5670-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>St\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9 opevn\u011bn\u00ed Toleda<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Toledsk\u00e9 uli\u010dky<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V historick\u00e9m j\u00e1dru m\u011bsta najdete opravdu kouzeln\u00e1 m\u00edsta. Ztratit se v nich je zdaleka nejlep\u0161\u00ed metodou pro jejich prozkoum\u00e1n\u00ed. Sv\u011btl\u00fd k\u00e1men, uzou\u010dk\u00e9 uli\u010dky, nov\u00e9 a nov\u00e9 kostely, spojky, pr\u016fchody, p\u0159\u00edkr\u00e9 kope\u010dky, schody. To v\u0161echno v\u00e1s tady \u010dek\u00e1 a a\u017e se proch\u00e1zkou unav\u00edte, vezm\u011bte zavd\u011bk posezen\u00edm na zahr\u00e1dce n\u011bkter\u00e9 z \u010detn\u00fdch restaurac\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4529-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-540\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4529-2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4529-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4529-2-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4469-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-539\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4469-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4469-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4469-1-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>\u00dadol\u00ed \u0159eky Tajo<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mezi mosty <strong>Puente de Alc\u00e1ntara<\/strong> (pobl\u00ed\u017e El Miradero, tam, kde isme s prohl\u00eddkou za\u010dali) a <strong>Puente de San Mart\u00edn<\/strong> (v bl\u00edzkosti kl\u00e1\u0161tera Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes) vede pod\u00e9l \u0159eky Tajo (\u010dte se &#8222;tacho&#8220;) turistick\u00e1 cesta.  Pokud se po n\u00ed vyd\u00e1te, \u010dek\u00e1 v\u00e1s kr\u00e1sn\u00e1, cca hodinov\u00e1 proch\u00e1zka \u00fadol\u00edm \u0159eky s bonusov\u00fdm v\u00fdhledem na oba historick\u00e9 mosty a na st\u0159edo\u0161pan\u011blskou p\u0159\u00edrodu okolo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4571-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"541\" data-link=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/?attachment_id=541\" class=\"wp-image-541\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4571-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4571-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4571-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Puente de Alc\u00e1ntara<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4557-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"542\" data-link=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/?attachment_id=542\" class=\"wp-image-542\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4557-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4557-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4557-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Puente de San Mart\u00edn<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Neud\u011bl\u00e1te chybu, pokud si s sebou vezmete l\u00e1hev vody, \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9 slunce dok\u00e1\u017ee b\u00fdt zr\u00e1dn\u00e9 a cestou nic nekoup\u00edte. J\u00e1 jsem se po t\u00e9hle trase proch\u00e1zela za\u010d\u00e1tkem dubna, a p\u0159esto jsem p\u00edtko s vodou v p\u016fli cesty v\u00edtala jako o\u00e1zu na pou\u0161ti \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/image-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-543\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/image-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/image-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/image-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/image.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>\u00dadol\u00ed \u0159eky Tajo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>El Greco<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mal\u00ed\u0159 El Greco (&#8222;\u0158ek&#8220;) je neodmysliteln\u011b spojen\u00fd s Toledem. Narodil se v roce 1541 na Kr\u00e9t\u011b, a po studijn\u00edch pobytech v Ben\u00e1tk\u00e1ch a \u0158\u00edm\u011b v roce 1577 p\u0159es\u00eddlil pr\u00e1v\u011b do Toleda. \u017dil tu cel\u00fdch 36 let, a\u017e do sv\u00e9 smrti roku 1614, a vyprodukoval tu sv\u00e1 vrcholn\u00e1 d\u00edla. Cel\u00e9 Toledo je jich pln\u00e9: obrazy, fresky, malby, nebo\u0165 se p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b \u017eivil prac\u00ed na zak\u00e1zku pro \u010detn\u00e9 toledsk\u00e9 kostely. Krom\u011b toho najdete v Toledu i muzeum El Greca, je j\u00edm d\u016fm za\u0159\u00edzen\u00fd tak, jak bylo v jeho dob\u011b obvykl\u00e9. Nen\u00ed to \u00fapln\u011b ten sam\u00fd, ve kter\u00e9m slavn\u00fd mal\u00ed\u0159 \u017eil (ve skute\u010dnosti bydlel v dom\u011b, kter\u00fd st\u00e1l naproti), ale stoj\u00ed za n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu a krom\u011b interi\u00e9r\u016f za\u0159\u00edzen\u00fdch ve stylu 16. stolet\u00ed l\u00e1k\u00e1 na v\u00fdstavu El Grecov\u00fdch obraz\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5641-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"544\" class=\"wp-image-544\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5641-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5641-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>Museo del Greco<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5626-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"545\" data-link=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/?attachment_id=545\" class=\"wp-image-545\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5626-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_5626-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>D\u00edla El Greca najdete v Toledu v\u0161ude<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Praktick\u00e9 info<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Toledo je skv\u011ble dosa\u017eiteln\u00e9 z Madridu. Z n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed Atocha sem jezd\u00ed rychlovlaky AVE, na m\u00edst\u011b budete za p\u016fl hodiny. Pokud pojedete na v\u00edkend, zabav\u00edte se ur\u010dit\u011b bez probl\u00e9m\u016f na cel\u00e9 dva dny. Toledo je ale ide\u00e1ln\u00ed m\u00edsto na v\u00fdlet i v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b, \u017ee jedete &#8222;na oto\u010dku&#8220;. V \u00fa\u017eas v\u00e1s uvede u\u017e n\u00e1dra\u017en\u00ed budova z po\u010d\u00e1tk\u016f 20. stolet\u00ed, kter\u00e1 se kr\u00e1sou sm\u011ble vyrovn\u00e1 mnoh\u00fdm secesn\u00edm pal\u00e1c\u016fm. M\u011bsto m\u00e1 neopakovatelnou, tak\u0159ka st\u0159edov\u011bkou atmosf\u00e9ru, a po rozp\u00e1len\u00fdch kamenn\u00fdch z\u00eddk\u00e1ch tu b\u011bhaj\u00ed pestrobarevn\u00e9 je\u0161t\u011brky. Drobn\u00e9 varov\u00e1n\u00ed: po\u010d\u00edtejte s v\u011bt\u0161\u00edm mno\u017estv\u00edm turist\u016f. L\u00edstky do katedr\u00e1ly nemus\u00edte nutn\u011b kupovat p\u0159edem, ale n\u011bjak\u00e1 ta fronta na n\u011b (v \u0159\u00e1du minut) na v\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4503-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-546\" srcset=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4503-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4503-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/IMG_4503-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><figcaption>St\u0159echy Toleda, v\u00fdhled z Alc\u00e1zaru<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pro\u010d vid\u011bt Toledo Vid\u00edm to jako dneska: sed\u00edm na hodin\u011b \u0161pan\u011bl\u0161tiny a nad\u0161en\u011b &#8211; tehdy je\u0161t\u011b pon\u011bkud l\u00e1man\u011b &#8211; vypr\u00e1v\u00edm o pl\u00e1nech sv\u00e9ho prvn\u00edho s\u00f3lo v\u00fdletu do \u0160pan\u011blska. &#8222;M\u011bla by ses pod\u00edvat do Toleda,&#8220; \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 m\u016fj u\u010ditel Jos\u00e9, a p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161liv\u011b vra\u0161t\u00ed \u010delo, &#8222;to mus\u00ed\u0161 vid\u011bt.&#8220; &#8222;A pro\u010d vlastn\u011b,&#8220; j\u00e1 na to, &#8222;co je tam k &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/2019\/04\/05\/toledo\/\" class=\"more-link\">Pokra\u010dovat ve \u010dten\u00ed<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8222;Toledo&#8220;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[3],"tags":[40,39,26,41],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/520"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=520"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/520\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":549,"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/520\/revisions\/549"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=520"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=520"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/spanelskodokapsy.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=520"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}